My mom told me to never go near the water. She said that the ocean was home to the most evil of creatures. She told me that looks can be deceiving. That, from land, the ocean looks so beautiful, peaceful, welcoming.She said the ocean lies. I grew up hearing this daily. It was the reason we lived in Boston. No where near water. A place where i can be safe. Little does she know in the summer, when I go to live with my Dad in Florida, I surf. I surf every day for as long as i can. The summer is what I live for. My Dads beach house, the hot weather and the cooling waters of Clearwater Beach is my life.
Don't get me wrong, I love my mom to death, but surfing is the best feeling in the world! You have no idea about the amount of freedom you feel. How care free it is. Its just you, your board, and the waves.