Body-Surfing Australia

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Status: In Progress  |  Genre: Non-Fiction  |  House: Booksie Classic

Body-Surfing in Queensland, Australia - circa 1969-70.

Submitted: September 01, 2018

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Submitted: September 01, 2018



Body-surfing in Queensland, Australia – circa 1969-70.

We, me and a couple of mates set out from Sydney, New South Wales at the end of the decade, 1960’s. We headed up the coast to Brisbane, Queensland in a new-bought second-hand General Motors’ Holden sedan. Christmas passed without a trace, we were all about 20 years of age. We drove almost non-stop, that is, I did. We stopped at the most famous pie-shop ever in Coolangatta; refer to my novel, Devils’ Playground for details.

Driving on through the night and day we came to Coffs Harbour, in what order I could not say. Pineapple plantations skirted the roadsides, we had our free fill. Next we touched down at Byron Bay, then a one-pub town with six houses and a post-office/general store. Of course Byron Bay is now the famous haven for the vacations of international celebrities, film stars and rock bands, etc. The town was nothing then; the small beach was everything. One of my friends and I spent a whole day body-surfing from off of Byron Bay Beach, the best beach for surfers.

The waves crashed in and the waves dragged out, huge rollers; and I and my friend caught every second wave when we weren’t swimming back to where we could catch yet another huge wave. It was the Pacific Ocean.

When we thought we were exhausted we felt compelled always to catch just one more wave. The fast moving, rolling, plunging waters swelled around us as we smoothly speeded to shore, the smooth fine sanded beach of Byron Bay. Not one moment did we rest, from sun-up to sun-down – and our one friend who sat in the car all the day was baked or roasted in the 40?+ heat of that memorable, and life affirming experience.

Thanx – Raymond Crane

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